Cheeses of Yerevan
Armenia's capital, where markets sell braided chechil, brined white cheeses and herbs to wrap in lavash.
Made, aged and sold here
Best time: April to June and September to October.
Yerevan, the capital of Armenia, has its back to Mount Ararat and a long tradition of cheese and bread. The city's covered markets sell many brined white cheeses, from sheep, goat and cow, alongside braids of chechil, a salty string cheese pulled apart by hand. Cheese with fresh herbs and lavash, the thin flatbread, opens almost every Armenian meal.
Chechil and the white cheeses
Chechil is a pasta filata cheese, its curd stretched into long strands that are wound into braids or knots and kept in brine. It is pulled apart into threads to eat, often with beer or as part of a cheese plate. Armenian markets also sell fresh brined cheeses named after the regions that make them, and motal, a goat cheese aged with herbs in clay pots.
Lavash, herbs and cheese
Lavash is baked against the walls of a tonir, a clay oven, and its making is recognised by UNESCO as intangible cultural heritage. Wrapped around cheese and a handful of tarragon, basil, coriander or purple basil, it makes the simplest Armenian meal. Yerevan's markets have whole rows of herb sellers, dried fruit stalls and cheese counters.
A trail idea for Yerevan
- The covered market Taste chechil and brined cheeses at the dairy counters.
- Republic Square The rose-pink stone heart of the city.
- The Cascade Climb for a view towards Ararat on a clear day.
- A lavash bakery Watch lavash slapped onto the walls of a tonir oven.
Written by the EveryCheese desk with AI assistance. Background: "Yerevan" on Wikipedia. Opening hours, markets, caves and tours change; check locally before travelling. If something is wrong, tell us.
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