Cheeses of Shilin
The Stone Forest county of the Sani Yi people, home of rubing, a firm fresh goat cheese that is sliced and fried.
Made, aged and sold here
Best time: May to October; the Torch Festival is in mid-summer.
Shilin Yi Autonomous County, south-east of Kunming, is famous for the Stone Forest, a maze of grey limestone pillars. It is also the home of the Sani, a branch of the Yi people, who herd goats on the karst hills. Their cheese is rubing, a pressed fresh goat cheese that does not melt, and it turns up fried, steamed or grilled in local meals.
Rubing
Rubing is made by heating goat's milk and setting it with an acid, often soured whey, then pressing the curd into firm blocks. Because it is acid-set, it holds its shape when heated. Cooks slice it and pan fry it until golden, serving it with salt and Sichuan pepper or chilli, or steam it with Yunnan ham. Shilin's goat cheese is known across the province.
The Stone Forest and the Sani
The Stone Forest is a protected karst landscape and one of Yunnan's most visited sights. Sani villages around it keep their own dress, embroidery and music, and the legend of Ashima, a Sani heroine said to have turned to stone, is told across the county. The Torch Festival in summer brings bonfires, wrestling and dancing.
A trail idea for Shilin
- The Stone Forest Walk the paths through the limestone pillars.
- A Sani village See embroidery and village life near the scenic area.
- A local restaurant Order fried rubing with salt and pepper.
- Naigu Stone Forest A quieter karst area a short drive away.
Written by the EveryCheese desk with AI assistance. Background: "Shilin Yi Autonomous County" on Wikipedia. Opening hours, markets, caves and tours change; check locally before travelling. If something is wrong, tell us.
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