Cheeses of Dali
Bai country by Erhai lake, where rushan, the 'milk fan', is stretched over bamboo, dried, then grilled or fried in the street.
Made, aged and sold here
Best time: March to May and September to November.
Dali, between Erhai lake and the Cang mountains in western Yunnan, is the heart of Bai country. China has few cheese traditions, and the Bai have one of the most unusual: rushan, a stretched cow's milk curd dried in thin sheets. In Dali's old town it is grilled over charcoal, spread with rose petal jam and rolled on a stick as a snack.
Rushan, the milk fan
To make rushan, fresh curds are heated and pulled into thin sheets, then wrapped around bamboo poles and hung to dry until yellow and leathery. The dried sheets keep for months. They are warmed over charcoal until soft and spread with sweet toppings, or deep fried until crisp and flaky. Villages in Eryuan county north of the lake are especially known for making it.
The old town and the lake
Dali's walled old town has stone gateways, Bai houses with whitewashed walls and painted eaves, and lanes of snack stalls. The Three Pagodas stand outside the walls. Around Erhai, Bai villages such as Xizhou keep courtyard houses and markets where rushan and rubing are sold alongside tea, ham and mushrooms.
A trail idea for Dali
- Dali old town Try grilled rushan with rose jam from a street stall.
- Three Pagodas The towers of Chongsheng Temple, symbol of Dali.
- Xizhou A Bai village with courtyard houses and a morning market.
- Erhai lake Cycle part of the shore road past fishing villages.
Written by the EveryCheese desk with AI assistance. Background: "Dali City" on Wikipedia. Opening hours, markets, caves and tours change; check locally before travelling. If something is wrong, tell us.
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