Cheeses of Leh and the Changthang
Ladakh's high desert, where Changpa herders make dried churpe from yak, goat and sheep milk and sell it in the bazaar at Leh.
Made, aged and sold here
Best time: June to September, when the roads are open and the herds are out.
Leh is the main town of Ladakh, at about 3,500 metres in the upper Indus valley. East of it lies the Changthang, a high plateau where Changpa herders move yaks, sheep and pashmina goats between pastures. Dairy is how they keep summer milk for the winter: butter for tea, and churpe, small pieces of cheese dried hard in the cold, dry air.
Churpe in Ladakh
Ladakhi churpe is made by heating buttermilk, pressing the curds and cutting them into cubes or strips that are threaded on string and dried. In the thin, dry air of the plateau it hardens quickly and keeps for months. It is chewed on long walks, dropped into butter tea, or softened in soups and thukpa. Soft fresh curd is also eaten in summer when milk is plentiful.
The bazaar and the plateau
In Leh's main bazaar, Ladakhi women sit along the street selling vegetables, apricots and sometimes strings of churpe. The Changthang itself, with lakes such as Pangong and Tso Moriri, is reached by long mountain roads and needs permits for visitors. Summer is when the herds are on the high grass and dairy work is busiest.
A trail idea for Leh and the Changthang
- Leh main bazaar Look for churpe, dried apricots and local barley along the street.
- Leh Palace The old royal palace above the town, with views over the valley.
- Thiksey Monastery A hilltop monastery on the road up the Indus valley.
- Changthang lakes Drive to Pangong or Tso Moriri to see the herders' summer country.
Written by the EveryCheese desk with AI assistance. Background: "Leh" on Wikipedia. Opening hours, markets, caves and tours change; check locally before travelling. If something is wrong, tell us.
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