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Stretched-curd cheeses

Mozzarella, provolone, kashkaval, Oaxaca and sulguni: curd heated and pulled into strands.

A ball: curd stretched in hot water and shaped by hand, often with a knot on top. Mozzarella, burrata and bocconcini.

Pasta filata, Italian for spun paste, is the family of cheeses whose curd is soaked in hot water or whey and then stretched and kneaded until it runs into long, glossy fibres. The method gives mozzarella its spring, provolone its shape and string cheese its strings. It reaches from southern Italy through the Balkans and the Caucasus to Mexico, where Oaxaca cheese is wound like a ball of yarn.

How the stretch works

The curd is first left to sour until its structure changes, so that it will stretch rather than crumble when heated. Cheesemakers test a small piece in hot water to see when it is ready. The curd is then cut, covered with very hot water and worked by hand or by machine until it is smooth and shiny. The proteins line up into fibres, which is why these cheeses tear in strands and melt in long threads. The hot paste is shaped into balls, braids, pears or logs, cooled in water and salted in brine.

Fresh and aged

Some are eaten within days: mozzarella, burrata, which is a mozzarella pouch filled with cream and shreds of curd, and small bocconcini. Others are aged for months. Provolone and caciocavallo hang in pairs from a cord tied round their necks, and one of several stories about the name caciocavallo, horse cheese, says it comes from hanging them astride a pole as if on horseback. Kashkaval of the Balkans is a firm yellow table cheese, and scamorza is often smoked.

Beyond Italy

Georgia's sulguni is stretched and brined, then melted into khachapuri. Armenia's chechil is pulled into thin ropes and wound into braids, and Syria's mshallaleh is braided in the same way. Turkey makes dil peyniri, tongue cheese, which pulls apart in strips. Mexico's Oaxaca cheese, also called quesillo, is stretched into a long ribbon and rolled into a ball for quesadillas. String cheese in North America is mozzarella pulled into sticks that peel into threads.

Worth knowing

  • Mozzarella: The fresh stretched curd of pizza and caprese
  • Buffalo mozzarella: Protected buffalo-milk mozzarella of Campania
  • Burrata: Mozzarella pouch filled with cream and curd, from Apulia
  • Provolone: Aged, hung stretched curd, mild dolce or sharp piccante
  • Caciocavallo: Teardrop-shaped cheese of southern Italy
  • Kashkaval: Yellow table cheese of the Balkans
  • Sulguni: Georgian brined stretched curd for khachapuri
  • Oaxaca cheese: Mexican ribbon cheese wound into a ball

Good to know

  • Keep fresh mozzarella in its liquid and eat it within a few days, at room temperature.
  • Tear fresh mozzarella for salads rather than slicing it.
  • Drain or pat fresh mozzarella dry before it goes on a pizza, so the base stays crisp.
  • Aged provolone and caciocavallo keep for weeks wrapped in paper.

Sources and further reading

About this page

Original text by the EveryCheese desk, written with AI assistance and checked against the sources above. Customs are described as tradition, not as advice. If we have something wrong, tell us.

Stretched curd on EveryCheese

The cheeses written up so far, best known first.

🇮🇹 Italy and 1 moreMozzarella A semi-soft Italian stretched-curd cheese made from cow or buffalo milk.Cow · Semi-soft · Milky and fresh 🇮🇹 ItalyBurrata A fresh Italian cheese with a solid mozzarella pouch filled with cream and stracciatella.Cow · Fresh · Milky and fresh 🇮🇹 Italy and 4 moreProvolone A semi-hard Italian stretched-curd cheese aged for at least four months.Cow · Semi-hard · Sharp and tangy-aged 🇮🇹 Italy and 4 moreCaciocavallo A stretched-curd cheese from southern Italy shaped like a teardrop and aged to develop a hard rind.Cow · Stretched curd · Nutty 🇮🇹 ItalyScamorza A stretched-curd cow's-milk cheese from southern Italy, often smoked and tied with string.Cow · Stretched curd 🇲🇽 Mexico and 5 moreOaxaca cheesequeso Oaxaca A semi-hard, stringy cow's milk cheese from southern Mexico, made using the pasta filata method.Cow · Semi-hard · Milky and fresh 🇸🇰 Slovakia and 1 moreKorbáčikkorbáčik (Slovak), korbacz (Polish) A braided string cheese from the Orava region of Slovakia and Poland.Cow · Stretched curd · Salty 🇮🇹 Italy and 2 moreStracciatella A fresh Italian shredded curd cheese mixed with cream, made from cow or buffalo milk.Cow · Fresh · Milky and fresh 🇮🇹 ItalyRagusano A firm stretched-curd cow's-milk cheese from Sicily with protected status.Cow · Stretched curd 🇬🇷 GreeceMetsovoneΜετσοβόνε A semi-hard smoked pasta filata cheese from the Greek village of Metsovo.Cow · Semi-hard · Savoury and brothy 🇮🇹 ItalyPallone di Gravina A firm pasta filata cow's milk cheese from southern Italy, aged for at least a year.Cow · Stretched curd · Nutty 🇮🇹 ItalyProvola silana A semi-hard stretched-curd cheese from the Sila mountains of southern Italy.Cow · Semi-hard 🇮🇹 ItalyProvola A semi-hard stretched curd cheese from southern Italy, often smoked or aged.Cow · Semi-hard · Sweet and caramel 🇮🇹 ItalyProvatura A fresh pasta filata cheese from Lazio, shaped like an egg and made from cow or buffalo milk.Cow · Fresh · Milky and fresh 🇮🇹 ItalyStracciata A fresh, tattered cow's-milk pasta filata cheese from the Molise region of Italy.Cow · Stretched curd · Milky and fresh 🇬🇪 Georgia and 1 moreAbkhazian cheeseაფხაზური ყველი A stretched-curd cheese made from sheep or cow milk, kept by the Abkhaz diaspora in Turkey.Sheep · Stretched curd 🇨🇷 Costa Rica and 1 morePalmitoQueso palmito A Costa Rican stretched-curd cheese shaped like a knotted ball of string cheese.Cow · Fresh · Salty 🇮🇹 ItalyMoliternoMulitiernu A stretched-curd cheese from Basilicata, made with cow or sheep milk and aged into a firm wheel.Cow · Stretched curd 🇦🇷 ArgentinaProvoleta A firm Argentine pulled-curd provolone cheese shaped for grilling and served with spices.Cow · Stretched curd · Savoury and brothy 🇮🇹 Italy and 2 moreMozzarella A semi-soft Italian stretched-curd cheese made from cow or buffalo milk.Cow · Semi-soft · Milky and fresh

Photo credits on this page

The small pictures above come from Wikimedia Commons under free licences. Some are cropped to fit.

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