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Époisses Gaugry (cow's milk cheese)

Époisses

A pungent washed-rind cow's-milk cheese from Burgundy, rinsed in local brandy.

Photo: Coyau, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Époisses is a soft, orange-rinded cheese made from cow's milk in the former duchy of Burgundy. It is washed with Marc de Bourgogne and aged for at least six weeks before being sold in wooden boxes.

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  • Washed in Marc de Bourgogne brandy
  • Soft orange rind with pungent aroma
  • Revived by the Berthaut family in 1956
  • Protected by AOC status since 1991
  • Sold in distinctive circular wooden boxes

What is Époisses?

This cheese presents as a round wheel with a bright orange-red surface. The paste inside remains soft and creamy throughout its life. It measures roughly ten or eighteen centimeters across. A distinct aroma rises from the washed exterior. The texture yields easily to pressure. The rind is fully edible and contributes to the strong flavour profile. It arrives in small circular wooden containers that protect the delicate form during transport.

Where does Époisses come from?

Legend traces the recipe to Cistercian monks at Cîteaux Abbey in the early sixteenth century. Local farmers took over the craft after the monks departed two centuries later. Napoleon reportedly enjoyed this specific variety. Production nearly vanished by the nineteen fifties following global conflicts. Robert and Simone Berthaut revived the traditional method in nineteen fifty six. Their son Jean now leads the family operation known as Fromagerie Berthaut.

What does Époisses taste like?

The taste is bold and assertive. A sharp scent fills the air upon opening the box. The interior offers a rich, buttery mouthfeel. Washing the rind in brandy intensifies the savoury notes. The flavour deepens as the cheese approaches the end of its minimum aging period. The combination of salt and alcohol creates a complex finish that lingers on the palate.

How Époisses is made

Producers heat whole milk to thirty degrees Celsius. Coagulation relies on lactic acid and lasts sixteen hours. Curds are handled gently and drained into molds. After forty eight hours, the wheels are salted and dried on racks. Cellar maturation follows immediately. Workers rinse each wheel up to three times weekly using water and Marc de Bourgogne. They brush the surfaces to distribute bacteria evenly. This process builds the characteristic orange colour.

Époisses, drawn

The cheese drawn as a small round on a board. Drawn from this page, not a photograph of one wheel.
Age: Young up to 2 months, on a 0 to 5 scale from fresh to extra-aged. At least six weeks in cellars.
A disc: a small, flat round with a soft white rind, cut here to show the paste. Camembert, Brie and Reblochon.
Milk Cow's milk. Lactic acid coagulation.

How Époisses is eaten and cooked

Eaters typically serve Époisses on a cheese board. The soft texture makes it ideal for spreading on bread. It pairs well with crusty loaves or simple crackers. Some consumers enjoy it alongside fruit or nuts. The strong flavour stands up to robust red wines. It is rarely cooked due to its delicate nature and high moisture content.

Époisses through the day

This variety fits comfortably on an evening board. Diners often select it for dinner gatherings. The intense character suits a dedicated tasting session. It does not belong to breakfast or lunch routines. The wooden packaging suggests a gift or special occasion item. Social settings provide the best context for sharing such a potent cheese.

Époisses in the world's kitchens

French gastronomy claims this cheese as a regional staple. The village of Époisses anchors its identity. Producers in the surrounding communes follow strict rules. The use of local pomace brandy defines the style. International fans seek out authentic versions from Burgundy. Imitations lack the specific terroir and traditional washing methods.

At a glance: where it turns up

By meal and use

Cuisines

Faith and ritual

No religious practices govern this cheese directly. Monastic origins remain a matter of oral history rather than current ritual. Modern production focuses on agricultural heritage. The Berthaut family maintains traditional techniques without spiritual mandates. No dietary laws restrict its consumption among major faiths.

Époisses at celebrations

The cheese appears on festive tables in Burgundy. Its revival story adds to its celebratory appeal. Locals view it as a symbol of regional resilience. Special occasions call for its distinctive presentation. The wooden box enhances its status as a treat. It represents the agricultural bounty of the Côte-d'Or area.

Custom and folk tradition

Folklore credits the monks with the initial creation. Farmers preserved the knowledge through generations. The Berthaut family embodies the continuity of this craft. Traditional skills involve careful hand-brushing and monitoring. The region values these historical connections deeply. Oral accounts keep the early history alive despite gaps in records.

Buying, keeping and serving Époisses

Keep the cheese refrigerated in its original container. The wooden box helps maintain humidity levels. Consume it within a few days of purchase. The soft texture means it spoils faster than hard varieties. Allow it to reach room temperature before serving for best results.

Protection and trade

The AOC designation protects the name and methods. Only cheeses from specified communes may carry the label. Production numbers remain relatively low compared to industrial varieties. Artisanal makers compete with the dominant family business. Export markets value the protected status and historical reputation.

Questions people ask about Époisses

What kind of milk is used to make Époisses?

Époisses is made exclusively from cow's milk. Producers may use either raw or pasteurized milk depending on the specific manufacturer and regulations.

Where does Époisses originate?

It comes from the village of Époisses in the Côte-d'Or department of France. This area was part of the historic duchy of Burgundy.

How long is Époisses aged?

The cheese must age for at least six weeks. This short period allows the washed rind to develop its characteristic orange color and strong flavor.

Why is Époisses so smelly?

The strong odor comes from washing the rind in brine and local brandy. This process encourages bacterial growth that creates the pungent aroma and soft texture.

Good reading and sources

Where this page comes from

The facts on this page come from the Wikipedia article "Époisses", written by its contributors and used under the CC BY-SA 4.0 licence, and from its Wikidata record (CC0). EveryCheese rewrote the text in its own words, with AI assistance, and compares every page with the article to make sure no passage is copied. It may be reused under the same CC BY-SA 4.0 licence with a link back.

It may contain mistakes. Recipes, ageing and customs differ from one dairy, valley or kitchen to the next. Folk beliefs are described as tradition, never as advice. If something is wrong, tell us. Last refreshed 2026-10-15.

Photo credits on this page

The small pictures above come from Wikimedia Commons under free licences. Some are cropped to fit.

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