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Kalari

A traditional ripened cheese of Jammu, pan-fried in its own fat and eaten in kalari kulcha.

A disc: a small, flat round with a soft white rind, cut here to show the paste. Camembert, Brie and Reblochon.

Also: kradi, kalari cheese, Kalari kulcha, milk chapati

Kalari, also called kradi, is a cheese of the Jammu region, especially Udhampur and Ramnagar, and is one of India's few traditional ripened cheeses. Raw, full-fat cow milk, sometimes buffalo, is curdled with sour whey from an earlier batch, and the curd is pressed by hand into flat rounds about the size of a palm, then dried in the sun, which gives it a long shelf life without refrigeration. It is cooked rather than eaten raw: dropped into a hot dry pan, it fries in its own fat, browns on the outside and turns soft and stretchy inside. Stuffed into a kulcha with onion, tomato and chutney, it is the street food kalari kulcha.

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